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15 days
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Everest
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Strenuous
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6,189 m
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From 1 person
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Peak climbing
Highlights
- Summit of Island Peak (Imja Tse, 6,189 m) with views of Lhotse, Makalu and Ama Dablam
- Training on fixed ropes, crampons and ascenders before the climb
- Namche Bazaar, Tengboche Monastery and Dingboche
- The Imja valley and Chhukung below the Lhotse wall
- A shorter climb without the detour to Everest Base Camp
Overview
Island Peak Climbing takes you to the summit of Island Peak (Imja Tse, 6,189 m), the most popular trekking peak in Nepal. After a flight to Lukla you trek through Namche Bazaar, Tengboche and Dingboche, with acclimatization days on the way, to Chhukung at the foot of the Lhotse wall.
From base camp you climb with a Sherpa climbing guide over a glacier and a steep snow headwall to the summit ridge, with views of Lhotse, Makalu and Ama Dablam. If you also want to see Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar, choose our 19-day Everest Base Camp and Island Peak Climbing, which gives more time to acclimatize.
Know before you go
Best time to go
Spring (April and May) and autumn (late September to November) are the best seasons for the climb, with stable weather and the best snow conditions. Autumn brings the clearest skies after the monsoon.
Winter (December to February) is very cold on the summit and the monsoon (June to August) brings cloud and snow, so we do not recommend climbing outside the main seasons.
Difficulty and fitness
This is a strenuous trip that combines a high-altitude trek with a guided climb on snow and ice. Summit day is long, usually ten to twelve hours, and you climb with crampons, a harness and fixed ropes. No previous climbing experience is needed, but you must be fit and comfortable walking for several days at altitude.
The acclimatization days in Namche Bazaar and Dingboche and the time at Chhukung help your body adjust. Training with long hikes, stairs and strength exercise in the months before the trip makes the climb far more enjoyable. Insurance must cover climbing above 6,000 m.
Permits
You need a Sagarmatha National Park entry permit, the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality permit and an Island Peak climbing permit.
We arrange all permits for you before the trip. See Includes/Excludes for what is covered in the price.
Itinerary
Welcome to Nepal. On arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, a Pikey Sherpa Adventure representative will meet you and transfer you to your hotel. Your climbing guide checks your gear, helps arrange any rental equipment and completes the climbing permit, followed by a briefing on the climb. Overnight in a hotel in Kathmandu (1,400 m).
An early-morning mountain flight takes you to Lukla, with views of the Himalaya on the way in. After meeting the porters, you set off on a gentle three-to-four-hour walk down through Sherpa villages and along the Dudh Koshi river. Please note: in the main seasons (March–May and October–November), Lukla flights usually depart from Manthali airport in Ramechhap, about a 4–5 hour drive from Kathmandu, so the day starts very early. Overnight in a teahouse in Phakding (2,610 m).
Today the trail follows the Dudh Koshi, crossing several suspension bridges before a long, steady climb to Namche Bazaar, the main trading town of the Khumbu. Take the ascent slowly and drink plenty of water; the walk usually takes six to seven hours. Overnight in a teahouse in Namche Bazaar (3,440 m).
A rest day in Namche is essential for acclimatization, following the rule of climbing high and sleeping low. A morning hike leads up to the Everest View Hotel for views of Everest and Ama Dablam, then on to the Sherpa village of Khumjung before you return to Namche. Overnight in a teahouse in Namche Bazaar (3,440 m).
A scenic trail contours high above the Dudh Koshi with views of Ama Dablam, Everest and Lhotse, before dropping to the river and climbing to Tengboche. The village is home to the famous Tengboche monastery, and the evening light on the peaks is memorable. Overnight in a teahouse in Tengboche (3,860 m).
The trail descends through rhododendron forest, crosses the Imja Khola and climbs gradually past mani walls and small settlements into open alpine country. Dingboche sits in a wide valley of stone-walled fields beneath Ama Dablam and Island Peak. Overnight in a teahouse in Dingboche (4,410 m).
A second acclimatization day helps your body adjust before the higher ground ahead. A hike up the Nangkartshang ridge above the village offers wide views of Makalu, Lhotse and Ama Dablam, after which you return to Dingboche to rest. Overnight in a teahouse in Dingboche (4,410 m).
A short walk up the Imja valley past stone-walled yak pastures brings you to Chhukung, surrounded by Lhotse, Island Peak and Ama Dablam. The short day lets you rest and acclimatize before the climb. Overnight in a teahouse in Chhukung (4,730 m).
The trail follows the moraine of the Lhotse Glacier to Island Peak Base Camp at Pareshaya Gyab. In the afternoon your climbing guide runs a training session on fixed ropes, ascenders, crampons and abseiling to prepare you for the summit. Overnight in a tented camp at Island Peak Base Camp (5,240 m).
You leave camp in the pre-dawn hours with headlamps, climbing rocky slopes to the glacier, where you rope up and use crampons and fixed ropes on the final headwall to the summit (6,189 m). After taking in the views, you descend carefully to base camp and on to Chhukung, a long day of ten to twelve hours. Overnight in a teahouse in Chhukung (4,730 m).
This day is kept free in case bad weather delays the summit. If the climb went to plan, you walk down the Imja valley past Dingboche to Pangboche, home to the oldest monastery in the Khumbu. The walk takes five to six hours. Overnight in a teahouse in Pangboche (3,930 m).
The trail descends to the Imja Khola, climbs to Tengboche Monastery and follows the balcony trail above the Dudh Koshi back to Namche Bazaar. The day takes about six hours. Overnight in a teahouse in Namche Bazaar (3,440 m).
On the final trekking day you retrace your steps down the Dudh Koshi valley, crossing suspension bridges before a last climb up to Lukla. It is a good evening to thank your guide and porters and enjoy a relaxed dinner together. Overnight in a teahouse in Lukla (2,860 m).
An early-morning flight takes you back from Lukla to Kathmandu, with a final look at the mountains from the air. On arrival you are transferred to your hotel, and the rest of the day is free to relax, explore or celebrate with your team. Overnight in a hotel in Kathmandu (1,400 m).
Your trip ends today. Depending on your flight time, you may have a few free hours for last-minute shopping or a final stroll, before a Pikey Sherpa Adventure representative transfers you to Tribhuvan International Airport for your onward flight.
